DuClaw’s Hell on Wood 2016, Damned Good Beer Indeed
Hell on Wood Barrel Aged Barley Wine, DuClaw, Baltimore Abv 13.1
A huge winter storm that delighted students and paralyzed airports from Virginia to Maine gives us a good excuse to continue a barley wine theme even as spring approaches. DuClaw is a good-sized regional brewery that manages to balance good sized flagships with very skilful one-off and small batches. Its Devils Milk has been a soberkilling staple since DuClaw was a relatively small brewpub in Bel Air, Maryland. We first had it at the Brickskeller holiday tasting in December, 2000; we were impressed. It was “only” 10% alcohol then, but that was pretty impressive for the equipment they had then. We had this barrel aged version at the Mad Fox Barleywine tasting in February this year and it blew us away. Aged on Kentucky White Oak, the big deep flavors gain complexity from the wood without being impaired by flavors that shouldn’t be there. Blending barrel and beer isn’t as simple as it sounds. Too often among this generation of brewers, it’s a guessing game at best. DuClaw’s Jim Wagner, however, has always had a knack for it and it shows in every sip.
Tasting notes: Rich, big and very complex. Malt jumps in early but barely manages to stay a step ahead of the barrel as they race downhill. At the bottom, vanilla, fruit, some spice, and thick clean caramel all play nicely together. Pears and pear reduction sing as it drinks.
Food Pairings: It wouldn’t be a sin to use this in place of a wine in a rich and complex meal, but we think there’s too much going on not to give it center stage. A goblet at just under room temperature and a good cheese plate as a final course would leave the diner feeling elegant even if the main meal had been fast food. Review #0084 201703
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