A GOOD BEER AND A VERY GOOD KITCHEN IN VENICE

Birra Venezia Rosso Doppio Malto Abv 6.4%

We’re enjoying the beer revolution as much as the next geeks, but there are times when we become a bit nostalgic for the old days of European travel that involved far fewer beers, but generally more consistent quality. “Those Days” are probably as much myth as memory; Stigl is a perfectly good mass market beer, but hardly worthy of the “Outstanding” five star rating I gave it in 1979.

The Revolution has meant that when we’re in Spain we don’t drink much San Miguel and when we’re in Germany we just plain don’t drink Becks. The Revolution also has meant that we’ve had more than our share of beers we’d be happier sharing than finishing. Still, with a bit of patience, even the less consistent “newpub” breweries usually turn out at least one style of beer that makes us glad the Kronenburgs of the world are in our rear view mirror.

Venice’s San Travaso Restaurant serves very good seafood at fair prices.

The San Travaso restaurant is a short walk from the Guggenheim museum in Venice. The address is Dorsoduro 1016. That information plus a very experienced guide will get you there quickly. If you haven’t hired a guide, ask for directions and keep on asking; maps are almost as useless in Venice as addresses. It’s really not that hard to find, and it is worth the effort.

It’s not quite as consistent as it was a few years back, but it’s still the place we start every time we visit Venice. We know about its consistency because we eat there so often. Seafood is first rate and if you wish to be adventurous you have good options.

The beer selection is limited, but it features several of the local Birra Venizia beers. The best of them is an Italian strong red lager reminiscent of Moretti La Rossa. Birra Venezia Rosso Doppio Malto is a beer well suited to a wine drinking culture. AT 6.4% abv, it’s substantial enough to hold its own with whatever you’ve chosen to eat, but sill modest enough to drink it like….beer.

Tasting notes: Like most Italian red lagers, it’s sweet with a firm body. Also like most Italian red lagers, it’s clean. This one has a fruitiness vaguely reminiscent of a light rosé. Its cleanliness makes it a bright and easy to drink beer, but it never loses its sweetness.

The shellfish appetizer is one of San Travaso’s best dishes.

Food Pairings: San Travaso does a pasta with squid served with a sauce of its own ink. It’s far from unique to this restaurant, but they do it well here. The deep red beer is a good match for the eye and the palate. We paired it with the magnificent shellfish appetizer. We might have chosen something lighter, but the Rosso was the best beer on the menu and sometimes like an NFL draft choice you’re best choosing the best talent rather than looking for position.