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Archives for March 2017

March 20, 2017 by Tupper Leave a Comment

title BoD3

Winchester Beer Crawl –  Winchester Brew Works: Hard Work Pays Off

we liked it - 3 stars

Winchester Brew Works Holiday Quad, Quadruple Ale on Dates        Abv   8.6

                Winchester Brew Works had eight beers on tap when we were there that ranged from a “Canoe Love” Cream Ale (Uh Huh—don’t make us explain that one) to this 8.6 Big Sipper.   We think their entry beers would keep most not-yet-up-to-craft partiers happy for an evening while their friends could enjoy the big complexities of strong ales and IPAs.  We liked the gentle way the flavors blended with competing and the rich aftertaste that allowed for the slow sipping this sort of beer not only deserves, but virtually necessitates.winchester brew works IMG_0303 logo2

Tasting notes:   Even, rich and smooth from the start with lots of dark fruits almost immediately.   We were skeptical about the added dates, but they accent without intruding while dark malts lurk in the background.  The dark fruits last with some cherry and dark cherry in the aftertaste.

Food Pairings:  This would be a good beer for rich and complex dessert.  Ever since the manager of the Brugges Bier Museum walked us through a series of strong beers and local Belgian cheeses, though, we’ve been hooked on the idea of a strong finishing beer and a cheese plate to finish the meal.   Stop and pick up some local artisan cheeses in town and reward yourself at the brewery.   This one, of course, will be gone by the time you get there, but there should be something rich and complex for you. Review #0086 20170320

Tomorrow, March 21, A Juicy Session from Winchester Brew Works

March 18, 2017 by Tupper Leave a Comment

title BoD3

Winchester Beer Crawl – Alesatian Blackness: A Tasty Dark Beginning to a Bright Night.

we liked it - 3 stars

Alesatian Blackness Dark American Ale, Winchester, Virginia        Abv        6.7

                Most people at Alesation seemed to like their full range of beers; everyone at our table had good things to say about them.   They were indeed drinkable, though some phenolic flavors suggested to us that they might have some issues with temperature control.  We had no problem enjoying the Blackness, though.  Had we stayed for the evening, I probably would have returned to their nicely hoppy IPA, but Ellie loved this beer.alesation logo

Tasting notes: Very dark with a huge ashy and somewhat acrid malt.   The ending adds some lactose and cream, but I thought it still stopped short of smooth.  Ellie thought it was nicely rich and smooth with black malt and a creamy feel.   Her bottom line “a basic clean gooey dark with dry herbs.  Yummy.”

Food Pairings:  Dark beers go very well with Italian red dishes including pizza.   Order something from downstairs and relax in the informal and welcoming atmosphere. Review #0085   20170318

We take Sundays off to dry out – On Monday we continue our Winchester Beer Crawl at Winchester Brew Works.

March 17, 2017 by Tupper Leave a Comment

title BoD3

DuClaw’s Hell on Wood 2016, Damned Good Beer Indeed  

00 top 10 percent 5 stars

Hell on Wood Barrel Aged Barley Wine, DuClaw, Baltimore        Abv        13.1

                A huge winter storm that delighted students and paralyzed airports from Virginia to Maine gives us a good excuse to continue a barley wine theme even as spring approaches.  DuClaw is a good-sized regional brewery that manages to balance good sized flagships with very skilful one-off and small batches.   Its Devils Milk has been a soberkilling staple since DuClaw was a relatively small brewpub in Bel Air, Maryland.   We first had it at the Brickskeller holiday tasting in December, 2000; we were impressed.   It was “only” 10% alcohol then, but that was pretty impressive for the equipment they had then.   We had this barrel aged version at the Mad Fox Barleywine tasting in February this year and it blew us away.   Aged on Kentucky White Oak, the big deep flavors gain complexity from the wood  without being impaired by flavors that shouldn’t be there.  Blending barrel and beer isn’t as simple as it sounds. Too often among this generation of brewers, it’s a guessing game at best.  DuClaw’s Jim Wagner, however, has always had a knack for it and it shows in every sip.

Mad Fox Brewpub in Falls Church, Virginai, hosts the Mid Atlantic's top barley wine festival.

Mad Fox Brewpub in Falls Church, Virginai, hosts the Mid Atlantic’s top barley wine festival.

Tasting notes:   Rich, big and very complex.   Malt jumps in early but barely manages to stay a step ahead of the barrel as they race downhill.  At the bottom, vanilla, fruit, some spice, and thick clean caramel all play nicely together.  Pears and pear reduction sing as it drinks.

Food Pairings:  It wouldn’t be a sin to use this in place of a wine in a rich and complex meal, but we think there’s too much going on not to give it center stage.   A goblet at just under room temperature and a good cheese plate as a final course would leave the diner feeling elegant even if the main meal had been fast food.   Review #0084              201703

Tomorrow – We start a seven beer Winchester beer crawl at Winchester’s newest brewery: Alesation.

March 17, 2017 by Tupper Leave a Comment

WINCHESTER, VIRGINIA:  HOPPING INTO THE 21ST CENTURY

WINCHESTER, VIRGINIA:  HOPPING INTO THE 21ST CENTURY

Winchester was another of our “throw a dart, find a brewery” weekends this year.   The Beer Mapping Project helps enormously in finding what’s near the spot where the dart lands.   When we last visited Winchester only five years ago  the only brewery was an extract fermenting brewpub that, well, did the best it could at the time.   Our return found a thriving craft beer culture and a nicely representative range of 21st century breweries.

A good Winchester crawl will leave you unable to drive even if you can find your car.  Our two recommendations are to stay a few miles out of town and Uber in and out or splurge for a room at the Grand Hyat-ized George Washington Hotel smack in the center of town, where with a good pair of shoes and a break in the weather you can walk to all three of the town’s breweries.

Alesation's brewhouse is modest in size, but produces very good dark ales.

Alesation’s brewhouse is modest in size, but produces very good dark ales.

We started our crawl at Alesation, the newest of the trio, located very centrally on N. Loudoun’s  pedestrian mall section.   The brew kit is less sophisticated than most on the market today – the centerpiece is a pair of 3 barrel soup pot looking heavy stainless steel vats.  We’ve had good beer from this system, or systems very much like it.  Braddock’s Brew Gentlemen’s brew house looks almost identical.   Alesation is doing well with some of their beers and seems to be having some temperature issues that gave some of the beers an edge, though we tasted no indication of infection.   The dark beers are the best.

The brewery and tasting room is upstairs from a pizza restaurant, and you can have food delivered from downstairs.   It’s good predictable Italian pizza-centered cuisine.  They’re not going to win a Michelin star for the food or a GABF gold medal for the beer, but that’s not the point.   The staff is wonderfully friendly and everyone seemed to be having a great time.   Of our three stops, this was the one where we had the hardest time finding a seat, though within minutes, a group at a picnic-style table squeezed together to make room for us.   A couple of minutes more and we had our new best friend for the weekend. He recommended the BlueWhistle for breakfast and we wound up meeting him there too.winchester brew works IMG_0303 logo2

 

Wincheste Brew Worksr's Brew House gleams behind the bar.

Winchester Brew Worksr’s Brew House gleams behind the bar.

An easy walk away from the center of town brought us to Winchester Brew Works.  Founded and still run by a pair of engaging and enterprising women, it features a sparkling stainless steel brew house and plenty of room for events in the tasting area.   If you’re lucky the owners will be there pouring beers – they’re knowledgeable and passionate about their craft.  We were surprised there weren’t more people there on a Friday night, but were assured that they nearly filled for some of their promotions.  Eat elsewhere, they have no kitchen.

Winchester Brew Works's spacious taproom

Winchester Brew Works’s spacious taproom

The brewer’s background in science pretty much assured what our friend and founder of Old Dominion used to call “biologically stable beer.”  Beyond that they varied.   It was interesting though that of the first few beers we tried Ellie liked some and I liked others, but it wasn’t until we got to the bigger beers – in hops, booze or both—that we agreed.  A juicy session was very approachable.  The star of the night was the double dry hopped Morgan Run Black Ale – more details on that are forthcoming in a beer of the day.

Our final stop was Escutcheon Brew Works.  We had had their beers at festivals in Northern Virginia, so we weren’t surprised to see a pretty sophisticated operation there. Escutcheon Brewing IMG_0317 Entrance Logo The tasting room can accommodate a few busloads of boozers, but the bar is a comfortable place to drink and the people are Winchester-friendly.

The most unusual feature was a concrete fermenting vessel that they affectionately referred to as their “egg.”  They couldn’t tell us exactly what the egg was supposed to do, but there’s no doubt that the one beer we tasted that had been egged had a distinctive range of flavors.   The APA was sweet and sugary with plenty of diacetyl that reminded us distantly of Samuel Smith’s Yorkshire slate beers.  We assume there’s something going on inside that egg to make it happen.

Escutcheon Brewing's distinctive big blue egg.

Escutcheon Brewing’s distinctive big blue egg.

They told us there were several wineries in the US using it, but no more than a half dozen breweries.  We’d never seen anything quite like it.

 

Escutcheon features the largest brew house in town.

Escutcheon features the largest brew house in town.

Beyond the egg, the beers were approachable if a bit sweet.   Their brewer isn’t the usual brewing hop head and has only recently bumped up their flagship Plimsol IPA to a higher IBU.   It’s not the first time they’ve played with the Plimsoll – we’ve had several versions that were flowered or spiced. A version dry hopped with Hull Melon was quite good.   Their current “redux”, though, does show the hops more than most of the others.

Before you leave town, be sure to pay a visit to Murphy’s Beer and Wine back on the main pedestrian street up a few blocks from Alesatian.   We’ve known owner Charlie Fish since she used to sell our Hop Pocket Ale, and she’s played a significant role in helping Winchester edge into the 21st century of beer.murphy beverage winchester IMG_0364   She’s always been supportive of craft and local brewing and though the selection isn’t as massive as a Total, the carefully chosen selection of beers are in good shape; you’re almost certain to find something interesting you haven’t tried before.   (Hopping Around Post #0032)

See our “Beer of the Day” – March 18-25 for comments on beers from these Winchester Breweries.

 

Data used by permission from Beer Mapping Project. Map powered by Google.

Data used by permission from Beer Mapping Project. Map powered by Google.

 

March 11, 2017 by Tupper Leave a Comment

title BoD3

COMING TOMORROW (3/17) – ONE MORE FABULOUS BARLEY WINE —  THEN A PUB CRAWL THROUGH WINCHESTER, VIRGINIA

MAD FOX SLOBBERKNACKER:  ONLY THE TASTING WILL BE VERTICAL

00 top 10 percent 5 stars

Mad Fox Slobberknocker 2016        Abv 10.4       Dry Hopped

                A sloberknocker, in case you haven’t been in one, is a respectable fight that brewks down into chaos.  There’s no doubt that a couple of pints of Mad Fox’s Slobberknocker would deliver a knock out punch; there’s a delightful riot to be had along the way.

Bill Madden has been a towering figure in the DC area brewing community for many years.   He’s had a chance to hone approaches to some classic beers that have migrated with him as he changed breweries.  Now with his own place in Falls Church, he can not only brew freely, but determine which beers will age and for how long.

 

Mad Fox Brewpub in Falls Church, Virginai, hosts the Mid Atlantic's top barley wine festival.

Mad Fox Brewpub in Falls Church, Virginai, hosts the Mid Atlantic’s top barley wine festival.

Barley wines age well.   The malt forward flavors mellow with time, the alcohol acts as a preservative and if the hops fade a bit, they never were the main story.   The Mad Fox Barleywine Festival, held at the brewpub each February, provides a wonderful chance and vertical tastings that will leave you horizontal if you’re not very careful.

The best range at this year’s festival was of the brewery’s own Sloberknockers.  Some aged in wood, some quite fresh, and this one-year-old prize that had been dry hopped with Citra hops.   Citra can be a good hop if it’s used carefully, but it can be edgy to annoying if used excessively or carelessly.   Madden has a knack of using it well, and rarely better than in this 2016 version of Slobberknocker.  The beer shows all of Citra’s remarkable breadth of flavors without succumbing to its edginess.   Ellie, who hates Citra if she can spot it, loved this beer.

The original barley wines were intended to replace Claret wine on the tables of British aristocrats.  This winey barley wine shows the original intent of the style better than most even if it does rely on a not-at-all 18th century hop.  We think the like of Henry Petty-Fitzmaurice, (Marquess of Lansdowne) and his buddies would love it.

Tasting notes:  Big and exceptionally soft, especially considering the alcohol strength and Citra hop.  Some fruit – stone with some pear-ish notes as it drinks creates a breadth of flavor that dresses up the booze in a three piece suit.  Ellie found a good deal of maple sugar in the malt that blanketed the Citra almost entirely

Food Pairings:   We’ve been recommending cheese with barley wines all week and there’s no reason not to repeat the choice here.  The is so smooth though, that any dish worthy of a smooth rich wine would pair as well with the Slobberknocker; its taste is ever so much more elegant than its name.    Review #0083   20170311

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What’s New Inside

 Gold Metal Winning Tuppers’ Hop Pocket Ale Returns!

Join us at Dynasty Brewing on July 17 between 3PM and 8PM to savor the first batch of Tuppers’ Hop Pocket Ale in almost five years.  We’ll be there signing books at a huge discount and the brewery will be pouring the beer that was created to be “Hoppy enough for Bob and balanced enough for Ellie.”

It hasn’t been easy to resurrect Tuppers’ Hop Pocket Ale, winner of a gold metal at the GBBF in the ’90s when well hopped beers were rare and almost non-existent in the east.  We’ve collaborated with Dynasty’s head brewer Favio Garcia, the brewer who produced the last batch of Tuppers’ Hop Pocket at Old Dominion to reproduce an authentic version of the original.    Dynasty is in Ashburn, Virginia– almost within walking distance of the Old Dominion brewery that brewed the first batch just over 25 years ago.

NOW PLAYING: on Beer of the Day—  Some great beers in the San Francisco Bay area.  Scroll down below this entry to find the featured beer of the day.   >>>>>

Later — in July we resume some great weekend destinations for beer travelers that we’ve found researching our guide to breweries and inns of the Mid Atlantic.  Whether you’re looking for a turn of the (20th) century 100 year old quaint and slightly rickety hotel, an engaging B&B or a magnificent survivor of the great era of railroad hotels, we’ve found hem– within walking distance of a brewery.   We’ll present more previews of the book’s best here rolling up to Pennsylvania before we’re through.

 

 

 

Beer of the Day

only beer pub 27 IMG_3154

 At Pub 27 in Pompeii

Far From India: India Pale Ales in the 21st Century.

Date:  March, 2019

The Story—

The Beer—

Value —

Values:  “fair” is a good beer at an above market price, “good” is worth the money, “very good” is a bargain, and “excellent” is a steal.

In mid-March we’re taking a look at the incredible variety of IPAs.   The style is by far the biggest seller among craft beers in the US and probably in Europe as well.   Even century-old breweries in Reinheitsgebot-narrowed Germany are brewing IPAs (if the brewer calls it “ale” it doesn’t have to conform to the strict purity law).   But you have to ask these days: What is an IPA”?  We’ll take a look at almost a dozen recognized and semi-recognized styles of IPAs in the next couple of weeks.

 We’re often asked to share our tasting notes on over 33,000 beers; this blog is in answer to those requests.   Not all our notes, though.  The great beer writer Michael Jackson admirably followed the Thumper Rule, and we’ll try to do the same.  (“If you can’t say something nice, don’t say nuthin’ at all.”)   All the beers we post are from the top half of our ratings and most are from the top quarter.   Of greater value, we think, are the stories behind the beers,   and we try to give you enough about the brewery, the style and the places to find great beer to help you on your own beer journeys.   At CulturAle Press we try to write books and publish posts that will help you “Drink Well and Travel Safely.”

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